Monday, October 28, 2019

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland

In September 2019 I returned to the United Kingdom, a favorite destination.  My plans were to hike the West Highland Way (WHW), a premier and popular hiking trail in Scotland, then afterwards to do some exploring in different parts of England.  I arrived London Heathrow airport on September 11, validated my Britrail Pass and took the Heathrow Express to London Paddington station, then took a taxi to London Euston station.  Then I got on the train to Glasgow.  I got off the train in Carlisle in the north of England and stayed the night there, as I wanted to visit Carlisle Cathedral to see the misericords in the choir stalls.  The misericords were impressive, but not as much so as the lovely starlight ceiling in the cathedral.  The following morning I got back on the train and went to Central Station in Glasgow, then took another train going north to Milgavie ("Mull-guy"), the start point of the WHW.  As I have done in previous long-distance hikes I used a company called Macs Adventures.  They always do a terrific job helping me plan my hikes.  They book me into modest B & B's or small hotels so I know my destination for each day and where I will be spending the night.  They also arrange for a luggage transfer service so that I can travel light with only a small backpack.
  The hike was so wonderful, that I am now eager to return to Scotland.  I have been to Scotland on other occasions, and knew it to be a scenically beautiful country, but I had never explored the area I was about to hike.  The hike from Milgavie (the start point) to Fort William (the finish point) is 96 miles, but I took several diversions to visit some places off the main trail, so I figure my total hike was 100 miles.  Some hikers do the whole trail in only 5 or 6 days, but I didn't want to feel hurried.  I wanted to go at a more leisurely pace, so I could stop and rest on occasion, view sights along the trail, and take photos of the plants, animals, and gorgeous scenery.  So my hike lasted 10 days.
  After Day 1, hiking from Milgavie to Drymen, the next 3 days were spent hiking along the Eastern shore of Loch Lomond, the largest lake in the UK.  Leaving Loch Lomond at the end of Day 4 I entered the Scottish Highlands.  The scenery was simply wonderful.  During my hike I crossed numerous streams and passed many waterfalls.  On Day 8 hiking from Inveroran to Glencoe, I hiked across desolate and isolated (yet beautiful) Rannoch Moor, one of the wildest and least inhabited places in all of the UK. I encountered absolutely wonderful hiking weather, and never had to dig my rain poncho out of my backpack.  There were a few showers, but none lasted for very long. and I had great weather for nearly all of the hike.  Scotland can be very cloudy and overcast, but on many occasions I was hiking in sunshine.  Here are some photo's of my hike, in the order in which I experienced them.

The Starlight Ceiling at Carlisle Cathedral

Milngavie, Scotland -- Start point of the West Highland Way

Day 1.  Hiking through Mugdock Woods

Day 1.  I took a diversion to visit the ruins of Mugdock Castle, 1372

Day 1.  Hiking along Cragallian Loch

Day 1. Dumgoyach

Day 1.  Leaving Dumgoyach


Day 2.  Loch Lomond

Day 2.  Near the shores of Loch Lomond

Day 3.  Ferns growing on rock wall

Day 4.  Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond
Loch Lomond



One of many waterfalls along the WHW

Day 5.  Lovely Loch Lomond

Day 6.  A diversion to Crianlarick village



Day 6.  Ruins of St. Fillan's Priory, 13th Century

Day 6.  Lovely stone bridge


Beinn Dorain
Day 7.  Approaching Beinn Dorain

Day 7.  Bridge of Orchy

Day 7.  Rock cairn overlooking Loch Tulla

Day 8.  Crossing Rannoch Moor

Day 8.  Glencoe

Day 9.  WHW, going to Kinlochleven

Day 9.  WHW

Day 10.  Ben Nevis ahead, tallest mountain in the UK

Fort William

The bench on High Street, Fort William.  Official End of the WHW

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