Monday, October 28, 2019

Hiking the West Highland Way in Scotland

In September 2019 I returned to the United Kingdom, a favorite destination.  My plans were to hike the West Highland Way (WHW), a premier and popular hiking trail in Scotland, then afterwards to do some exploring in different parts of England.  I arrived London Heathrow airport on September 11, validated my Britrail Pass and took the Heathrow Express to London Paddington station, then took a taxi to London Euston station.  Then I got on the train to Glasgow.  I got off the train in Carlisle in the north of England and stayed the night there, as I wanted to visit Carlisle Cathedral to see the misericords in the choir stalls.  The misericords were impressive, but not as much so as the lovely starlight ceiling in the cathedral.  The following morning I got back on the train and went to Central Station in Glasgow, then took another train going north to Milgavie ("Mull-guy"), the start point of the WHW.  As I have done in previous long-distance hikes I used a company called Macs Adventures.  They always do a terrific job helping me plan my hikes.  They book me into modest B & B's or small hotels so I know my destination for each day and where I will be spending the night.  They also arrange for a luggage transfer service so that I can travel light with only a small backpack.
  The hike was so wonderful, that I am now eager to return to Scotland.  I have been to Scotland on other occasions, and knew it to be a scenically beautiful country, but I had never explored the area I was about to hike.  The hike from Milgavie (the start point) to Fort William (the finish point) is 96 miles, but I took several diversions to visit some places off the main trail, so I figure my total hike was 100 miles.  Some hikers do the whole trail in only 5 or 6 days, but I didn't want to feel hurried.  I wanted to go at a more leisurely pace, so I could stop and rest on occasion, view sights along the trail, and take photos of the plants, animals, and gorgeous scenery.  So my hike lasted 10 days.
  After Day 1, hiking from Milgavie to Drymen, the next 3 days were spent hiking along the Eastern shore of Loch Lomond, the largest lake in the UK.  Leaving Loch Lomond at the end of Day 4 I entered the Scottish Highlands.  The scenery was simply wonderful.  During my hike I crossed numerous streams and passed many waterfalls.  On Day 8 hiking from Inveroran to Glencoe, I hiked across desolate and isolated (yet beautiful) Rannoch Moor, one of the wildest and least inhabited places in all of the UK. I encountered absolutely wonderful hiking weather, and never had to dig my rain poncho out of my backpack.  There were a few showers, but none lasted for very long. and I had great weather for nearly all of the hike.  Scotland can be very cloudy and overcast, but on many occasions I was hiking in sunshine.  Here are some photo's of my hike, in the order in which I experienced them.

The Starlight Ceiling at Carlisle Cathedral

Milngavie, Scotland -- Start point of the West Highland Way

Day 1.  Hiking through Mugdock Woods

Day 1.  I took a diversion to visit the ruins of Mugdock Castle, 1372

Day 1.  Hiking along Cragallian Loch

Day 1. Dumgoyach

Day 1.  Leaving Dumgoyach


Day 2.  Loch Lomond

Day 2.  Near the shores of Loch Lomond

Day 3.  Ferns growing on rock wall

Day 4.  Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond
Loch Lomond



One of many waterfalls along the WHW

Day 5.  Lovely Loch Lomond

Day 6.  A diversion to Crianlarick village



Day 6.  Ruins of St. Fillan's Priory, 13th Century

Day 6.  Lovely stone bridge


Beinn Dorain
Day 7.  Approaching Beinn Dorain

Day 7.  Bridge of Orchy

Day 7.  Rock cairn overlooking Loch Tulla

Day 8.  Crossing Rannoch Moor

Day 8.  Glencoe

Day 9.  WHW, going to Kinlochleven

Day 9.  WHW

Day 10.  Ben Nevis ahead, tallest mountain in the UK

Fort William

The bench on High Street, Fort William.  Official End of the WHW

Monday, June 3, 2019

Hiking the Appalachian Trail for 4-days, lodge-to-lodge, through Shenandoah National Park in Virginia

  On May 21, 2019 I flew from Madison, WI with daughter Susan and her fiance Andy to Richmond, Virginia.  A shuttle from Adam Stanleys Hostel and Shuttle Service met us as the airport and took us to Charlottesville, where we checked into our comfy rooms at The Inn B and B.  Shortly thereafter, Susan and I were relaxing on the terrace outside my room.



  That evening we explored the nearby pedestrian mall in Charlottesville.  After a terrific breakfast the next morning, Adam transported us to Swift Run Gap where we began our intended 40-mile hike on the AT.  The trail was well-marked and we started hiking up a significant incline, walking through a lovely forest of oak, basswood, and tulip trees, with goosefoot maple and sassafras present as common understory trees.





 The rhododendrons were just starting to blossom. Many of the trillium had already bloomed, but we saw many at the height of their bloom.



  During our first day we were entirely surrounded by forest and were unable to see any views of the Blue Ridge Mountains that we were hiking through.  By late afternoon we reached Lewis Mountain Cabins, where we had booked a cabin for the night.



DAY 2: Lewis Mountrain Cabins to Big Meadow.  The next morning, soon after leaving the cabin, we hiked through a vast field of ferns covering the forest floor.  Along the trail interesting saprophytes were just emerging above ground.




  After several miles we came to one of the AT shelters that are located at intervals along the trail.  These are used by hardy Thru-Hikers who are attempting to hike the entire 600+ mile long AT, which runs from Georgia to Maine.





  For most of the hike, as on the first day, we were hiking underneath forest canopy.














  We did come to a few overlooks where we could stop and briefly rest, and get a sense of the Blue Ridge Mountains that we were hiking through.





  The trail was well-marked with white blaze paint markings, located at intervals on rocks or trees.




















  As we were nearing Big Meadows we took a diversionary trail (marked by blue markings) to Lewis Waterfalls.  This involved a descent on a rocky trail down to the waterfall (hiking poles came in handy), a brief stay at the waterfall, and they a fairly steep ascent up another rocky path.  We stopped to watch a black bear and her cut and then got caught in a thunderstorm, so that when we finally arrived at Big Meadows Lodge we were soaking wet (the adventurous unknowns of hiking!).  We celebrated our arrival with alcoholic beverages in the bar followed by a nice dinner in the dining room.  We had heard about blackberry ice cream pie, and so ordered one serving which we shared.  Except for the once brief heavy rain shower, we had perfect hiking weather (low 70's temperatures and a nice breeze) during our 4-day hike.

DAY 3: Big Meadow to Skyland.  The hike began under the forests canopy, often with extensive areas of ferns on the forest floor or a variety of blooming flowers along the trail.  I was very happy to find a beautiful patch of the rarely seen Yellow Lady Slipper's orchid in full bloom.





  On this section of the AT we could choose to stop at several different overlooks which afforded lovely views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Shenandoah valley.





DAY 4: Skyland to Thornton Gap.  The last 10 miles of our hike looked like it might be a piece of cake, but with quite a lot of up and down on an achy right knee, it proved quite a challenge.  However, seeing our fourth black bear, this one only about 12 feet from the trail, made the hike worth doing.







  We were picked up by our shuttle driver at Thornton Gap at the prearranged time of 4 pm, and driven back to our B and B in Charlottesville.  The following morning we visited the Rotunda at the nearby University of Virginia.  The Rotunda was designed by Thomas Jefferson as a seat of learning.  Today the Rotunda is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Though more challenging than I had anticipated the hike was a positive experience, facilitated by dramatic forest and mountain scenery, interesting plants and animals encountered along the way, clement weather, and wonderful hiking companions.