In September 2022 I returned to England to attempt another long-distance solo
hike, this time on the Cleveland Way in Yorkshire. This is England's 2nd oldest
National Trail, completed and opened to hikers in 1969. It is about 108 miles in
lenght. I arrived at London Heathrow, took the Heathrow Express to London
Paddington, and then a taxi to London Kings Cross station. The short trip took a
long time because of all the traffic diversions in place because of the Queen's
funeral at Westminster Abbey. From Kings Cross I took a train to York and then a
bus to Helmsley, the official start of the Cleveland Way. The first half of the
hike was spent inland crossing the moors of the North Yorkshire National Park,
and the second half of the hike involves coast walking, starting at the coastal
village of Saltburn-by-the-Sea, and then down the North Yorkshire coast to the
coastal village of Filey, the terminus of the Cleveland Way. Along the way after
leaving Saltburn, the hike took me to the lovely coastal villages along the
coast -- Staithes, Whitby, Robin Hood's Bay, Scarborough, and finally, Filey.
The scenery crossing the moors was wonderful and the hike along the coast was
replete with dramatic cliffs and coastal scenery. I managed to complete the
entire trail with the exception of one day when I took a taxi for several miles
and another day, because of rain showers and aching feet, I took a bus from
Robin Hood's Bay to Scarborough. The hike was much more rigorous than I had
anticipated. There was a fair amount of walking on flat terrain, but hiking
across the moors involved steep ascents followed by challenging and somewhat
dangerous descents as I crossed from one moor to the next. The coastal walking
was also challenging at times when a valley or descent down to a beach required
hiking down and then back up flights of steps to return to the cliff top. I
experienced clement weather with very little rain. I met few hikers attempting
the walk the entire distance of 100+ miles but those I did meet were very
friendly and interesting people. When I finished the hike I traveled to Looe, a
lovely coastal village in Cornwall, for some R & R and more exploring, including
a hike on the Southwest Coast Path from Polperro to Looe. After visiting Looe I
traveled to Luckington where I visited with my longtime English friend Clive
Renton. We spent a wonderful day together exploring Tintern Abbey in Wales. Here
are some photos of my hike on the Cleveland Way
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The Feathers Hotel, my lodging in Helmsley |
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The start of the Cleveland Way, and the first of many gates |
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Lovely Rue Bridge and the church in Helmsley |
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Rievaulx Bridge |
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Ruins of Rievaulx Abbey |
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Sutton Bank and the view author James Herriot called "the finest view in England" |
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Cairn on Live Moor, at one time a Bronze Age burial mound |
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Preparing to hike Scarth Wood Moor |
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The trail up to the top of imposing Roseberry Topping |
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At the summit of Roseberry Topping |
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The pretty coastal village of Staithes |
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My third encounter with hikers Sherry and Kristi |
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Steps leading down to Skinninggrove Beach |
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"Circle" sculpture, one of several sculptures along the coastal walk |
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Dramatic coastal scenery |
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Rinswick Bank Top Village |
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Yet more lovely coastal sceney |
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The Whale Arches at Whitby framing Whitby Abbey |
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Whitby harbor |
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Whitby Abbey, inspiration for Bram Stoker's "Dracula" |
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Leaving Whitby |
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Coastal scene from the cliff path |
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Dramatic cliffs, these on the way to Robin Hood's Bay |
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The beach at the popular coastal town of Scarborough |
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Filey Brigg, the peninsula on the approach to Filey |
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