Hiking Sections of the Superior Hiking Trail

On September 15, 2012 I drove from my cabin in NE Iowa up to Duluth, Minnesota, and from there headed up the North Shore of Lake Superior.  My goal was to take a week to hike sections of the Superior Hiking Trail, one of the premier hiking trails in the country.  I stayed four nights at a motel near Gooseberry State Park, then drove 70 miles further North and stayed four nights at Cascade Lodge about 10 miles South of Grand Marais.  Each day I hiked a different section of the SHT.
On Day 1 I hiked the Split Rock River Loop.  The 8 mile hike took me up one side of the Split Rock River and then down the other.  It was a gorgeous day, the air cool and crisp and scented by the spruce, pine, and balsam fir trees along the trail.  The aspen and birch leaves were turning to their characteristic yellow, and many of the maples were beginning to show shades of red and orange.

 The next day I explored beautiful Gooseberry State Park.  There is much to explore here, including a wonderful Interpretive Center.  The park has many trails, including some that connect with the SHT.  Along the picturesque Gooseberry River there are many dramatic waterfalls, including 5th Falls, the Upper Falls, Middle Falls (pictured below) and the Lower Falls.

On Day 3, I returned to Gooseberry State Park, where there were many trails within the park to explore.  I hiked two trails, the River View Trail and the Gitchi Gummi Trail. The River View Trail took me along the Gooseberry River, which eventually entered Lake Superior.  Later I took a park trail that connected with the SHT and I hiked to a high vantage point called Mike's Rock.  Today's hike was a long one, about 13 miles, though my feet told me I'd hiked much further.

 

 

 The following day I checked out of my motel and drove North to Finland, then to a county road and a parking area for SHT hikers.  Leaving my car I took a spur trail from the parking lot that intersected the SHT.  Once on the SHT I hiked to two lovely lakes, Egge Lake and Sonju Lake.  I rested a while at Sonju Lake then hiked back to the car, a round trip hike of 12 miles.  The trail to the two lakes was through lovely mixed forest of evergreens and hardwoods.  At one point on the well-maintained trail, as I walked through a lovely grove of birch trees I encountered a large boulder, likely deposited by the last glacier.  During this all-day hike I didn't encounter another human being the entire time.   I made it back to the car, slightly wet from a sudden brief downpour, then drove up to Cascade River State Park and checked into Cascade Lodge for 4 nights.

 

The following day I hiked another loop trail, this one the Cascade River Loop, which goes up one side of the Cascade River and then down the other.

  

 The next day I left the lodge and took a spur trail to the SHT, and then hiked to Lookout Mountain, which offered spectacular views of the forests and of Lake Superior.  I then hiked back to the state park and explored more of the Cascade River which cascades down to Lake Superior in a series of dramatic waterfalls.

At the mouth of the Cascade River I discovered that the salmon had started running.  They were leaving the lake and swimming up the river.  They were only able to swim the first several hundred yards or so before they encountered a some high waterfalls that blocked their way.  There are several different species of salmon that live in the lake and the local fisherman call this species "pinkies".

 

 

 On my last day I joined a group hike sponsored by the Superior Hiking Trail Association (SHTA).  The hike was open to anyone who wanted to participate, but most of the 60 or so people who showed up for the hike were members of the SHTA.  Maintenance of the SHT is a volunteer effort by persons who love the outdoors and recreational hiking.  The association gets no funding from local, state, or federal agencies, and relies exclusively on private citizens who become members, and thus help maintain this wonderful hiking trail.

 

During my 7 days on the SHT, I figure I hiked approximately 60 miles (it seemed much longer).  I discovered that mid-September is a terrific time to hike the trail.  There are few other hikers, so one can find solitude and quietude on the trail, experiencing the natural world more intimately and with few distractions.  There are no pesky mosquitoes or biting flies to contend with, the air is crisp and invigoratingly cool, and the leaves are changing color, providing wonderful images for both eyes and camera.

8 Days in Magical Morocco

 In early June 2012, Sharon and I joined a General Tours trip to Morocco.  We flew from JFK in NYC directly to Casablanca on Royal Air Moroc Airlines.  On our first tour of the city one of our first stops was at the impressive Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world. One could not help but be impressed by the immensity of the architecture, and by the gorgeous doors and portals and the intricate designs in the tile and plaster work.
  Later in the day we visited the Royal Palace in Casablanca.  There is more than one Royal Palace in Morocco, and this is not the main one, but this is where the current monarch, King Mohammed VI and members of the royal household stay when they are in Casablanca.  Again -- wonderful doors and intricately beautiful plaster and tile work.

  On the third day we left Casablanca and drove to Rabat, the capital of Morocco.  Our first stop was the Royal Palace -- the main Royal Palace.  A number of guards were stationed at the main entrance, and when looking into the front doorway one could see a series of doorways in the distance.

  Continuing our journey we passed Shallah Kasbah.  A kasbah is basically a fortified castle.  It is built on a square plan with fortified walls and towers at the four corners.

  We next visited the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the current king. At the entrance gate to the mausoleum there was a guard atop a horse.

  Next we visited Kasbah Oudaia.  Built on the top of a cliff, its gates and walls date to the 12th century.  As we walked through the narrow kasbah streets I was struck by the beauty of the houses, built in the 17th and 18th century, and lime-washed in blue and white.

  Before leaving Rabat we had lunch at a seaside restaurant.  Walking to the restaurant we passed through a vast Moslem graveyard.

  Leaving Rabat we drove to Fes, Morocco's third-largest city, and the oldest of its 4 imperial cities (Rabat, Meknes, and Marrakech are the other three).  Fes is the embodiment of the country's history and its spiritual and religious capital, and the city has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.  Below is a view of part of the city from an overlook.

  Arriving in Fes we checked into our lodging for 3 night, the Riad Fes.  The term "riad" refers to large, old houses that have at least one central patio or courtyard.  These old-style Moroccon houses are located in the medinas [densely packed urban conglomerates enclosed by defensive walls]. A medina is a traditional Arab town enclosed by ramparts; the term "medina" comes from the city of  Medina in Saudi Arabia where the Prophet Mohammed found refuge from persecution.  Riads provide lodging for a much smaller number of guests than do hotels.  We stayed in two riads during our visit to Morocco and the experience was far superior to staying in a large international hotel.  When we checked into Riad Fes we were welcomed by a member of the hotel staff with a plate of goodies and a glass of mint tea in the central lobby.  Our room overlooked the central open courtyard and pool and a complimentary bottle of wine was in our room at our arrival.

    One of our first introductions to the city of Fes was to spend several hours walking through the narrow streets of its medieval medina.  Colorful shops with interesting wares appeared at every turn.

    While in the medina we stopped for presentations at a variety of different cooperatives and shops -- a carpet shop, a tannery and leathergoods shop, a co-op where artisans were producing beautiful tile and plaster objects, a woodworking shop, an antique shop, and a metalsmith shop. The talks and demonstrations were all interesting and, of course, it was hoped that we would purchase something afterwards.
  Our next stop was at another Royal Palace -- the Royal Palace of Fes or the Dar el-Makhzen.  The palace is imposing, with a beautiful richly ornamented Moorish gateway and seven exquisitely engraved bronze doors.

  We next visited the Karaouiyine Mosque, one of the oldest and most illustrious mosques in the western Muslim world.  It was the site of the first university established in Morocco, in the year 859 AD.  We did not actually enter the main mosque but we did explore the teaching school and marvelled at the beauty of the intricate tile and plaster work and the Arabic calligraphy.

  As we explored the Fes medina we saw many gate entrances to the medina.  One of the most beautiful was the Baujouloud gate.

 The following day we drove to Meknes, another of Morocco's 4 imperial cities.  Before arriving in Meknes we stopped at Les Celleurs de Meknes, a very large and modern award-winning winery, where we sampled several of their wines.  In Meknes we explored part of the medina and saw several of its beautiful gates, such at the lovely Bab El Mansour.  After our explorations we entered our van and travelled out into the countryside, passing the sacred city of Moulay Idriss.  The bright white town clings to two rocky outcrops.  It is here that one of the most sacred sites in Morocco is located, the tomb of Idriss I, a descendent of Ali, the son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed.  It was Idriss I who founded the first Arab-Muslim dynasty in Morocco, before his death in 791 AD.

  A short distance from Moulay Idriss are the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Volubilis.  At the site one finds a forum, basilica, capitol, and the remains of private villas with tile floors, some still in excellent condition.  One mosaic floor showed Venus, another portrayed Atlas, and yet another villa had a tile floor showing the 12 labors of Hercules.  At one end of the site stands the Arch of Caracalla.

  Leaving Fes after 3 days we travelled to the exotic city of Marrakech.  We checked into another riad, the beautiful La Maison Arabe.  The following day our first stop was Le Jardin Majorelle, a lovely garden created by a Frenchman, and later purchased and maintained by Yves St. Laurent.

  Later we visited the tombs of the Saadian dynasty.  The tombs illustrate some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in all of Morocco.  Under each rectangle of elaborate tilework there is a tomb.

    I especially enjoyed exploring the souks.  A souk is a market, typically laid out in a pattern according to the types of goods or services available.  The souks of Marrakech are fascinating and the narrow labyrinthine passages seem to go on forever.

  On another day we drove out of Marrakech and into the High Atlas Mountains, following the verdant Ourika Valley. Berber villages dotted the landscape, their brown walls blending into the brown mountainsides.  As we travelled along the valley we saw small houses, cafes, grocery stores and small hotels clinging to the hillsides. The highlight of this day was our opportunity to visit a traditional Berber home, where we were welcomed by grandmother Fatima.  As we snacked on a large flat slab of homemade bread, homemade butter, local olive oil and local honey, Fatima prepared us delicious mint tea in the traditional manner.

  Morocco is a country with a rich cultural history and beautiful scenery.  Moroccan people are friendly and welcoming.  It is a Moslem country on the move.  Everywhere we went we saw new construction as older sub-standard buildings gave way to fresh and modern development.  If you've not been there it's a country you should consider adding to your Bucket List.

6 Days on the Outer Banks of NC

On April 24, 2012 Sharon and I flew from Cedar Rapids to Raleigh/Durham airport in North Carolina, where we were met by Susan who has just finished her first year of graduate study at Duke University. We spent the night in Durham, consumed a fabulous meal at Dame's chicken and waffle house, and toured some of the Duke campus, including its lovely chapel.

The following day Susan drove us from Durham to Nags Head on the Outer Banks. Along the way we made several stops, including a farm where we picked a large bucket of fresh strawberries. We checked into the Nags Head Beach Inn B & B for a 6-night stay and then walked a short distance down to the beach to beachcomb.

The following day, after a very hearty breakfast, we got in the car and Susan drove South down the Outer Banks. For the most part the Outer Banks are insanely overdeveloped with vacation homes. Apparently, no one builds a modest little beachhouse anymore, as all of the homes were huge McMansions. Considering that no barrier islands remain stationary and that the Outer Banks are slowly moving towards the mainland, all of these very expensive homes, if not removed by hurricanes, will be in the ocean one day. It makes absolutely no sense, reminding me of the validity of the question: "Is there intelligent life on Earth?" Thankfully, between the areas of housing over-development there were sections of the Outer Banks left in their natural state, spared from human "progress". After about 70 miles we reached our destination, the Cape Hatteras lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse on the Atlantic Coast. He climbed the lighthouse, enjoyed the view, then went to the nearby museum where we saw a film documentating the impressive feat which took place in 1999, when the lighthouse was slowly moved further inland from its original location, where it was threatened by the encroaching ocean.

Just a few miles North of Nags Head is Kittihawk, and the following day we drove there to see the actual location where Orville Wright, assisted by brother Wilbur, flew the first motorized airplane in 1903. We toured the museum, then went outside to see the field where Orville Wright flew the plane on 4 separate trials, each attempt resulting in a longer distance than the last.

Leaving Kittihawk we drove North along the Outer Banks, past the rich and ritzy community of Duck, to the town of Corolla where we joined a tour offered by Jay's Adventure Company to see the Corolla wild horses, one of several populations of wild horses living on the Outer Banks. For several hours Jay drove us along the beach and into the dunes looking for horses. We came across several groups, each with 3 to 5 individuals, consisting of a stallion and several mares. The horses move freely in the dunes, amongst the houses being built seemingly everywhere, and often come down to the beach where they go close to the waters edge and stand looking out, much like equine philosophers, at the immensity of the ocean.

After the tour we returned to Corolla to see the Currituck lighthouse. Like all lighthouses it has a unique pattern of light flashing that allows ships at night to recognize it from all the other lighthouses on the Atlantic Coast, and like all lighthouses it is painted in a unique style so that it can also be identified in daylight from all other lighthouses by ships at sea. At Corolla we visited the Nature Museum where I bought 2 very nice hiking poles for only $17 each and saw the Whalehead Club which was built as a hunting lodge in the 1920's-1930's when Currituck Sound harbored huge populations of waterfowl. Returning back to Nags Head for the night we foolishly stopped in Duck for a hugely overpriced so-so supper.

The next day we journeyed to nearby Jockey's Ridge State Park where we climbed and explored the highest sand dunes on the Atlantic coast.

Later in the day we drove to historic Roanoke Island, location of the first English settlement in North America. There we visited Roanoke Island Festival Park and learned some of the history about the "Lost Colony". Queen Elizabeth I didn't want to let the French and Spanish have sole control of the New World; and so in 1584 armed with a charter from Queen Elizabeth, Sir Walter Raleigh sponsored England's first sustained exploration and settlement of the North American coast, in order to counter Spanish domination in the New World. Two vessels arrived off the North Carolina coast and the English established relations with the Algonquians on Roanoke Island. The ships departed after several weeks, taking with them 2 Alqonquians, Manteo and Wanchese, back to England. Seven ships returned in 1585 and an earthen fort was constructed. Then, in 1587, the first true colony was established. A group of 117 English colonists established the Roanoke colony and on August 18, 1587 the first English baby in the New World was born, a girl named Virginia Dare. The colonists experienced many difficulties in the New World -- disease, food shortages, conflict with the indians -- and when supply ships returned three years later they could find none of the original colonists, hence the designation "The Lost Colony". At the park we boarded the Elizabeth II, a reproduction of one of the English sailing vessels.

Afterwards, we walked to the nearby Elizabethan Gardens, which were built to memorialize the original colonists of the Roanoke Island voyages.

One day, while Susan and Sharon were enjoying the beach, I left the B & B with one of my newly purchased hiking poles and walked several miles North to the Nags Head Woods Preserve. Shielded from the ocean winds bya ridge of ancient sand dunes the preserve, which has been saved and protected by the Nature Conservancy, is a 1400 acre maritime forst featuring an incredible diversity of plant and animal life. During my hike I saw a young red fox outside its den, an osprey swooping over a pond, and many different song birds. The beauty and quietude of the preserve was a welcome change to the traffic and human dwellings that have now come to symbolize the Outer Banks.

To see all of my photo's of the trip to the Outer Banks just click on "Floyd's pictures" on the sidebar.